Alagar malai (Alagar Mountain)

Alagar Koil is a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is situated at a distance of 21 km from Madurai, on foot of Alagar hills, amongst the natural beauty of the woods. The Vaishnavite temple is famous for its beautiful sculptures and exquisite 'mandapams'. It is believed that pilgrims visited Azhgar Kovil even in the early days of the Sangam age. According to Hindu Mythology, Lord Vishnu came to this place from his heavenly abode to give away Goddess Meenakshi in marriage to Lord Sundareswarer.

The splendid main tower at the entrance is believed to have been built by the Pandyan Kings. According to the historical background of the place, Malayadhwaja Pandyan, son of Kulasekhara Pandyan, was the earliest known monarch to patronize the temple. Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan beautified the 'vimana' of the shrine with gold plates. After the Pandya rule, the Nayakas patronized the deity.

The main deity of this temple is called Paramaswamy and the processional idol is called Alagar or Sundararajan. The stunning idol is made of pure gold and is an exquisite example of craftsmanship. There is shrine of Kalyana Sundaravalli, the divine consort of Alagar, in the southern enclosure. There is another shrine in the north dedicated to Andal. Other important shrines are of Sudarshanar and Yoga Narasimha.

There is another shrine nearby, dedicated to Karuppannaswamy, the God of Kallars. There are finely carved eighteen steps, which are an object of both worship and amazement by the devotees. It is claimed that nobody dares to tell a lie at this spot. The place is also known for its holy springs called Silamboru and Noopura Gangai. According to local tradition, these springs originated from the anklets of Maha Vishnu during His incarnation as Trivikrama.

The legend has it that sage Suthapas (Munivar) was bathing in Nupura Gangai at Alagar Hill and did not pay heed to Durvasar Maharishi, who was passing by. The enraged Durvasar cursed Suthapas that he would turn into a frog until he is redeemed of his curse by Lord Sundararajar, who is also known as Kallazhagar.

The Suthapas Maharishi, who is named as ‘Mandooga’ munivar because of his frog status, performed ‘thapas’ (prayer) on the banks of river Vaigai, which is otherwise known as Vegavathi, at Thenur. The Lord Kallazhagar comes from his abode in Alagar Hill to redeem Mandooga Maharishi of his curse, when he is praying.

Since days unknown, it is believed that the lord Kallazhagar comes to Thenur via Malaipatti, Alanganallur and Vayalur. In Thenur Mandap, the lord redeems the sage of his curse and leaves for his abode.

“During Thirumalai Nayak regime (1623 to 1659 AD), in 1653 the Mandooga Maharishi relieving ritual was shifted to Vandiyur village where the event is performed at Thennur Mandapam, built by Thirumalai Nayak himself.

When we enter into the enterance,first we have to pray the "protection deity of the Alagar malai",called pathinetaampadi Karuppa Samy. The Legend has it that, Lord Rama had sent Sita to the forest when she was pregnant and lived in Saint Valmiki's Ashram. While in the Ashram, She brought a male heir of Rama to the world.

One day when she was going out for some chores of the Ashram, she asked the Saint to take care of her child in the cradle. The Saint was watching the child and meanwhile went into a deep meditation. When Sita returned, she found that the Saint was in meditation and didn't want to disturb him to tell him that she was taking her child.

When the Saint was out of the meditation, he found the child missing. So he put some holy grass (Dherbai) in the cradle and with his mantra he made that as a child. Later when he found that Sita was having her real child, he was so confused and asked Sita to treat the new baby also as her own child.

When Sita was returning to Rama, he was expecting only one male heir. But to his astonishment, he found two boys (Lavan and Kushan) approaching him. Again to test the purity of the boys, he set a fire and asked the boys to cross the fire to reach him. He told that whoever was his real heir would cross the fire unscathed. Unknowingly the boy brought up by the Saint, stuck in the middle of the fire and burnt his body becoming very dark.

Finally, Rama got to know what had happened in the forest to have two boys instead of one. Then he blessed the burnt boy to become his escort god (Protection God) and called him “Karuppannan” which became Karuppa Sami.

He wields an "Aruval" which is a very significant weapon in Tamil Nadu and is considered, in itself, as a symbol of Karuppanar himself. Some Aruvals may reach the height of even 5 feet, especially the ones in Thiruppaachhi. The Most Important musical Instrument Which like by God karuppanan are Tappu,Tharai,kombu Tharai,Otha thamukku,Pambai,Udukkai and Urumee.

Another legend has it that,The king of Malabar,was scheming to get the utsavar idol of Azhagar into the Malabar coast and let no thought go wasted.The minister for treasury suggested that the best way to get the idol would be with stealth and magic.

Two days later, 18 people, learned in all sorts of magic, tantra, religious rights and warfare, secretly left for the capital of the Pandia Empire, Madurai. The were accompanied in spirit by the Guardian Deity of Malabar, Malayala Karuppu. Tackling their way through the western and eastern ghats, they ended up at the outskirts of Madurai. Before them, the four towers of Meenakshi Sundareswarar temple thrust high into the skies, twinkling with lights. Ignoring this splendid sight, they turned their heads left. The lonely but equally impressive tower of Azhagar kovil, shone bright in the night lamps.

They had arrived!!!

The arthajama pooja was just over in the temple, and the temple priests were locking up the individual shrines, when it happened. Eighteen large men attacked the temple, with their magic and might. The priests were however, fully equipped for such an attack. Afterall, the presence of a solid gold idol did not come without its share of dangers. They invoked the kshetra palakar for his help and chanting the name of the lord, they went to defend the temple. Within no time, the eighteen attackers lay dead on the ground. The priests buried them just outside the main door, as a symbol of their victory.

It was then that they heard a rustle, like air moving in water. And before them materialised a mighty figure. Dressed as a warrior, complete with a long-sword and matted locks, pitch black in colour, stood Malayala Karuppu. “Oh priests of the temple of Azhagar!!! You have shown immense loyalty and bravery in defending this temple. I am impressed. As a gift to your loyalty and as a penalty for aiding a thieving mission, I will guard this temple till the end of times. I will assure that robbery and other immoralities do not take place in the temple and in the surrounding villages. I will guard the temple, over these very eighteen bodies. In times of trouble, I will come in aid”. Having said this, he suffused into the temple doors, making them glow bright for a moment, before they returned to normal. Malayala Karuppar had taken his place and since he guards over the eighteen bodies of the would be thieves, he is called Pathinettampadi Karuppar and is the guardian deity of Azhagar Malai.

The main doors of the Karuppar temple remain closed most of the year. It is believed that Karuppar resides within them looking over the kshetra and the neighbouring areas. During this time, people worship the door itself as the guardian deity. They smear sandal paste over the doors to reduce the heat of Karuppar’s Ugram and make offerings of long forged swords. Some of the swords are double a man’s height and offer a very frightening sight. The doors also act as the seat of the local Panchayat. People who utter lies in the vicinity of the doors have their lives destroyed by the guradian god’s wrath. Villagers wanting to resolve criminal and civil issues, make the accused promise in front of the doors, the belief being that if he did do wrong and refuses it in front of the door, then Karuppar would give him his rightful judgement. A nominal fee of Rs 6 is charged for any such case brought to the temple doors.

The door is, however, kept open once a year during the Brahmotsava. A strange thing happens that day. The jungles surrounding the temple, which are usually alive and vibrant with the calls of birds, go absolutely silent.  Not a single bird is found in the vicinity on that day, and the temperature in the region increases by several degrees above the average. People believe that this is a manifestation of the god and his vented ugram. Special poojas are offered to the open doors before thay are closed again at night, never to open for another 365 days.

Karuppar also takes part in the day to day running of the temple. Every morning, the priest who brings water for Azhagar’s abhisheka has to pause before the doors and promise that the water was indeed brought from the Noopura Gangai and not from anywhere else. At the end of the day, the accounts of the daily activities are laid before him and finally he is also entrusted with the keys of the temple treasury at night. He is also invoked for the protection of the lord and his retinue when Azhagar embarks on his 10 day long trip to Madurai, in the month of Chithirai every year.

And that brings us to the grandest story ever of the Azhagar Temple. One that is enacted every year, to this very day.

After finishing the traditional prayers with Pathinetaampadi Karuppu, we are entering into the gate way of the main deity of Alagar malai,"The Sundara Raja Perumal".The newly constructed temple has Lord Vinayaga at the entrance while Lord Sundararaja Perumal (Kallazhagar) stands with his consorts – Sri Devi and Boo Devi. Lord Karudalwar stands at the entrance of the sanctum sanctorum facing the deities.The architecture of the Azhagar temple corresponds to any of those of south Indian temples, with large gopurams and pillared mandapams.The style of the buildings denote, 3rd or early 4th Century construction.

Some research scholars opine that this was earlier a Jain temple, (the somaskanda vimanam for instance) but which however was later converted into a Vishnu temple. It is true that during archeological excavations, many Jain caves and inscriptions were found in the same hill around this temple. However, the famous Vaishnava works in Tamil, belonging to the early 4th to 6th Centuries point that to this temple as a Vishnu temple. The famous Silapadikaram too, that belongs to the 3rd Century AD, points out to this temple as a Vishnu temple.

The Azhagar Hills has a tropical forest cover which extend from Azhagar Kovil in the south to Natham in the north. The Tamil Nadu state forest department has been maintaining a herbal garden on the hills.The entrance to the garden is restricted to siddha research scholars. The garden is irrigated by a natural spring locally known as the devi theertham.

After finishing the prayers in the temple,be prepare to climb by walk or in the vehicle to the top of the hill,there we have the dharsan(worship) of Lord Muruga of Palamuthircholai and Goddess sri Raakachi Amman. To reach the top of the hill,the temple's van has been arranged with nominal charges.Now we are going to see the two important Shrines of Alagar malai.

1. Palamuthircholai
2. Raakachi Amman Theertha thotti of Noobura Gangai (Holy spring 'Noobura Gangai)

We should first worship the Lord Vinayaga, sitting under the Naaval fruit tree, since He is the "Aathimoola porul" .

When the Lord Vishnu took the incarnation as thiru Vikrama avathaaram, HE measured the boologam (earth) with one feet and the second feet was placed on vinnulaham (galaxy) and such holy feet proceeded and entered beyond the satya logam (one part of Galaxy) that Lord brahma is governing. Lord Brahma performed abishekam (pouring on) with his kamandala jalam (water) for this holy feet. The theerththam or water that fell off from the abishekam became several folded and descended as several holy rivers in parts of boologam (earth) of which the main and a very special one such is river ganges. The water that washed the holy and golden silambu (a type of anklet) of the Lord dropped at this place in Alagar malai area and became the "silambaaru" (silambu river). This silambaru is also known as "noobura gangai". The Thirumanchanam (pouring of water on the Deity) for the ursavar of this Kshethram (holy place) is performed using only the theerththam from this silambaaru in a tradition that goes back several centuries. It is noted that when such thirumanchanam was performed using the theerththam from other sources than this silambaaru, the ursavar idol used to get darkened. Hence it is a practice even today that people will travel 2 miles around the foot hills to get this punniya (holy) theerththam from silambaaru to perform the thirumanchanam.

Upon which the Noobura Gangai Theertham,Goddess Sri Raakachi Amman Shrine is there. She is pouring Her blessings on the devotees,in the form of water.After taking the holy bath,we are preparing to get down by the staircases and come again to Palamuthicholai,from there only, we can get down to the foot of the hill by the temple's vans or other private vehicles,if we arranged earlier.